The Cape Country Meander

  • Botrivier

    A pretty river town that's home to one of the oldest hotels in South Africa.

  • Caledon

    Famous for its mineral-rich hot water springs, which were first discovered by the Khoi-khoi.

  • ELGIN (GRABOUW)

    Farm-fresh produce, apples, roses, and the best cool climate wine-producing region in the country.

  • Genadendal

    A beautifully preserved hamlet full of atmosphere and history.

  • Greyton

    Ye Olde English country village with lively street-side stores and cafés.

  • Riviersonderend

    Rural simplicity with spectacular valleys, mountains, canyons and waterfalls.

  • Tesselaarsdal

    A secluded hideaway so hidden, in fact, that it doesn't appear on certain maps.

  • Villiersdorp

    Perfectly positioned for water sport, nature and wine enthusiasts.

Thursday, 30 January 2014

Compelling Reasons To Visit Villiersdorp

You really do need to see for yourself why Villiersdorp is more than a convenient stop en route to somewhere else. Historically dwarfed by the mega pull of it’s more famous neighbour, Franschhoek, this quietly humming country gem has all kinds of stop and stay curiosities for jaded travellers. It’s practically spilling over with fascinating history and there are plenty of nature and outdoor activities for the whole family, including cosying up to an Alpaca.

Old stone Anglican Church

Hitting the water

VIlliersdorp is conveniently close to the Theewaterskloof Dam, South Africa’s seventh largest, which means the town is fast becoming a homing signal for water sport enthusiasts. Public visitors are welcome to come and do some keel boat, multi hull and dinghy sailing. You can also do some power boating, jet skiing, water skiing, kite surfing, and windsurfing. The dam’s water expanse is so large that anglers won’t suffer wayward sailors, skiers or surfers. In any case, the Theewater Sports Club (link to website) firmly believes in enjoyment for all while conserving the natural environment and respecting the individual rights of its users.

Theewaterskloof Dam: Seventh largest in South Africa

Back in the day

Some of the residents are descendant of French Huguenots who escaped persecution in France in 1685. The town owes it’s name to a chap called Pieter de Villiers (not the Springbok rugby coach) on whose original farm, Radyn, one of the original water mills still exists today. Villiersdorp Cellars boasts the oldest cellar in the Cape Overberg and it’s well worth booking a guided tour. The old stone Anglican Church in Union Street has its very own burial vault. You certainly won’t want to be creeping around at night. These are just a handful of the town’s historic highlights.

Oude Radyn (1844) with original wooden gutters

So much to do so little time

Browse the craft shops and art galleries or purchase some wine. Venture out and do some wine tasting in the surrounding area and stay on for some lunch. Try the Akkedis mountain biking and hiking trails. Make friends with an Alpaca at the Heldestroom Alpaca Farm (link to website) just outside Villiersdorp. Pop in to local eateries for some bistro style or home made country food or just meander around and pop in somewhere for a coffee. Villiersdorp is the kind of place you can just sit and admire the gorgeous tree lined street and watch the world go by.

Tree lined streets

Where to lay your hat

This is not the place to come and have the duplicitous charming, country town experience with a Vegas stay over. There is an array of accommodation options and you’re bound to find one that suits your expectations of comfort and budget. Villiersdorp offers everything from camping and self-catering cottages to B&B’s, country lodges and luxury guesthouses. Regardless of where you opt to stay, you’ll get a warm welcome from your hosts. Villiersdorp is that kind of friendly town.

For more information visit www.villiersdorptourism.co.za or www.capecountrymeander.co.za.

Tuesday, 21 January 2014

Discover The Real Tesselaarsdal

Tesselaarsdal is the ideal getaway in which to experience unpolluted natural beauty and small-town community living at its unsanitised best. Yes, the gravel road is long and a little inconvenient for urbanites but this is part of the town’s tucked away charm. It compels you to slow down and immerse yourself in your surrounds; it certainly helps to authenticate Tesselaarsdal as one of those rare off-the-map experiences most of us crave and seldom find so close to Cape Town. In fact, Tesselaarsdal is a very convenient 21 kilometres from Caledon and has much to offer if you’re willing to leave your high heels and preconceived ideas behind.

What You’ll Find in Tesselaarsdal

You’ll almost certainly spot some blue crane and plenty of lazy sheep on your way in. Entering the town itself, you’re likely to find cows languishing on the side of a dam in mock-Vogue pose. You might see Oom (uncle) Jordaan walking down the main road en route to stopping for a chat and a cup of tea at a neighbour. Everyone belongs to a church here. On Saturday mornings you’re bound to hear lively church singing. Most of the residents are also ardent rugby fans. People gather at the local pub in the centre of town to banter and goad one another at match time. It isn’t uncommon for Oom Ava to be present. He refereed local matches in his smart white kort broek (short pants) and blazer back in the day. Oom Ava is highly respected and a bit of a legend in these parts, and for good reason.

Little known apartheid court victory

Oom Ava played an important role in fighting for and securing Tesselaarsdal’s legal exemption from the apartheid land reform system, the only town to achieve this in South Africa. It’s a story about Tesselaarsdal well worthy of telling and entirely necessary. Few people outside of Tesselaarsdal know this fact. Steven and Sandra Young, originally from Somerset West started coming here years ago for weekend getaways. With time the trips to Tesselaarsdal became shorter and the trips back longer. Moving here permanently three years ago, they chose to live in the town as part of the community.

What is the hairdresser’s trail?

Practically every person, every cottage and even walking, hiking and mountain biking trails have a story. For instance, once upon a time, the hairdresser would walk a fair distance from Stanford to Tesselaarsdal to do people’s hair. As a result, the route he took is commonly referred to as Haarkapper’s Roete (hairdresser’s route). The walking, hiking, mountain biking trail that follows the route will soon officially be known as Haarkapper’s Roete. Come and find out about Annie’s famous homemade koeksisters (typically South African sweet). Stay over at one of the comfortable self-catering options. If you don’t feel like cooking arrange with Millie, a friendly local with heaps of stories of her own to cater meals for you. There are also plans to introduce a coffee shop. Nothing happens here according to prescribed tourist recipes. Things happen slowly. Life isn’t easy and like many small towns this too is one in transition. Regardless, Tessie has its own very special brand of welcome and activity.

Unusual nighttime outdoor adventures

There are plenty of opportunities to explore the outdoors even until deep in the night where you’ll discover arguably some of the clearest milky way viewings in South Africa. Don’t be surprised if you chance upon rather large porcupines. They make a bizarre “ghrk, ghrk-ing” noise, like clanging armour, as they run. From the mossie bird’s unusual weaver-like nest entrance in the eaves of Steven and Sandra’s patio roof; to the mother skunk who used a cut in half plastic Coke bottle to nestle and protect from the elements her babies, encounters here are unexpected. Even rescued moles come back for a kuier (to pop in and call on someone or visit). This is a town working to create a truly delightful lifestyle experience by being the lifestyle themselves.

Sandra, Steven, Oom Jordaan




Tuesday, 14 January 2014

Family-friendly Outdoor Adventure in Riviersonderend

Unless you’ve travelled the picturesque garden route on the N2 between Cape Town and Mossel Bay you might not have heard of Riviersonderend. Those who have heard of it and who do stop there usually do so for a couple of minutes to refuel and then move on. What many people don’t realise is that this gorgeous unspoiled landscape with its beautiful mountain backdrop and pristine surrounds provides for some spectacular outdoor adventure. The best part is that it is not over-subscribed by the crowds.

Historic Signal Canon Trail

Officially known as the Kleinbergie Trail, this moderate 4.4 km route is marked by signal canons, which form part of the old Overberg signal canon system. Historically, the canon system would call residents in the area to military service in the event of war. At the foot of the trail, the lengthy Sonderend River, known for its overhangs and cave-like nooks provides for some fabulous bass fishing, canoeing and swimming.

Some of the best kloofing in the Western Cape

For beginners the 17 km Riviersonderend Canyon Gorge Trail, includes an exciting (compulsory) seven metre jump. For more experienced kloofers the nearby 18 km Suicide Gorge Trail includes an optional waterfall slide and a number of jumps into cool, dark pools. It’s highest jump is approximately 14 metres. However, as with all outdoor pursuits, kloofing is not a spontaneous activity to be undertaken lightly, particularly if you’re afraid of heights or a weak swimmer. Visit the Cape Nature website for more information on opening and closing times and hiking permits.

More reasons to stick around

South African’s threatened national bird, the Blue Crane is a regular sight in these parts along with a variety of other birdlife; a spectacular array of indigenous fynbos; and some small buck. There are also two circular 4X4 trails and a host of other outdoor pursuits all with breathtaking views. For more information on Riviersonderend visit the Cape Country Meander website. 

Cautionary note: Before venturing out always check weather conditions. The Western Cape is known for its diverse and unpredictable climate.

Tuesday, 7 January 2014

Must See Miniature Doll Collection at Searles in Greyton

Searle’s Trading Post on the Main Road in Greyton is known for its unfussy but delicious comfort food and its sundry collectables. Each room is divided into an interesting pocket of vintage items, all of which are on sale. One such pocket includes an otherworldly olde English miniature doll experience, painstakingly rendered with a great deal of research, historical knowledge and affection.

The lady behind the collection

Originally from England, Nora Muscroft is a Greyton resident who started the original main house collection more than 20 years ago. She scoured fairs, read books, visited stately homes in England and set about creating a replica world with real characters and evidences of real life day-to-day circumstances. Her husband Martin also helped to recreate specific structural details including intricate cornices, ceilings and spectacular miniature lamp and chandelier lighting. The lights really work and must have taken ages to perfect. The display is so authentically real that even the grocer’s store is modeled on a real store of someone the Muscrofts knew in Headingley, West Yorkshire in England.

Come find your favourite scene, character, activity, or item

Take for instance, the two cleaners in one part of the manor house. One has a cigarette in her mouth is being reprimanded by the other for smoking on the job. On closer inspection you’ll notice she’s also being chided for the mud wheel stripes on the carpet left by the bicycle propped up against the wall. Look out for the deliberate broken ceiling tile. Peer closer into the room to see how the water that’s seeped through the tile has created tiny rivulets of damage to the wallpaper and left the corners peeling. Inspect carefully the scene with the old man reading his newspaper. His study is a collection within a collection. The walls, shelves and floor contain evidence of his travels from deepest Africa to India. Notice the butterfly collection on the wall, the Bengal tiger skin on the floor, and the ancient artifacts from Egypt.

On a typical Olde English Street

Outside the manor house the grocer is selling his store wares from cured meat hanging in the back to fresh sausage and an array of pies and tarts. The sweet shop is filled with candy canes, all sorts, lollipops and a scale ready to weigh your purchase. See the bridal emporium with its dresses and veils – all in white – and the fabric store with its tiny clippers, patterns, and delicate knitting needles. The pharmacist is pouring over his bottles, vials and beakers concocting something to soothe some ailment, imaginary or otherwise. And all of this is going on while young girls take their lessons in the schoolhouse.

Bring the whole family

One little boy wrote in the visitor book, “I don’t really like doles (dolls) houses but now I saw these, there (they’re) cool, pretty awesome”. You cannot help but be affected by the experience, even more so owing to the surprised expressions and animated exclamations from little people to grannies and grandpas. Nora Muscroft’s miniature doll experience costs absolutely nothing except for a little imagination. What sets her collection apart is her exceptional ability to tell stories. You half expect to hear conversations and see steam rising off dining platters.

Wednesday, 1 January 2014

Why Nelson Mandela Renamed His Presidential Residency Genadendal

Genadendal is often overlooked as the demure sibling of the bustling picturesque town of Greyton just 5 km away. While not a foodie hub, and with more of a hamlet feel, than that of a town, it’s no less charming. Genadendal certainly has much to recommend a visit particularly in terms of its intriguing history. Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela, South Africa’s first democratically elected president visited this tiny town in 1995. He was so affected by its “tangible and intangible history” that he renamed his presidential residence in Cape Town, Genadendal. It means “valley of grace” and for good reason. The historic town square marks the site of the first mission station and the first teacher’s training college in South Africa. It was on this very square that people of all races were encouraged to read and write and become more than just manual labourers on farms. Of the beautifully preserved cottages, one was home to the official founder, Moravian Missionary, George Schmidt.

Naming a town and revolutionising a community

In the early 1700s the original inhabitants of the then Cape Colony, the Khoi-khoi, were in chaos. They were starving and dying of a smallpox epidemic. Their nomadic, pastoral way of life was disintegrating. Many had been forced off their land and onto settler farms as slave or cheap labourers. When Schmidt arrived in 1738, he set about establishing a small pioneering, industrious community. He renamed Baviaanskloof (baboons ravine), Genadendal. He insisted that people of all races were educated and were encouraged to learn skilled trades. The community thrived, trading and selling their goods throughout the colony. Soon, disgruntled Dutch Reformed clergy from Cape Town and local farm owners forced him to abandon his work and he abandoned the mission and left the country in 1744. Although Schmidt’s time in Gendendal was short his impact had a lasting effect. The town claims its place as the first permanent Khoi-khoi settlement in the country. Today’s residents can proudly trace their ancestry as far back as six generations or more. Plus, owing to Schmidt’s initial pioneering educational efforts, the first teacher’s training college in South Africa was established at Genadendal in 1838, the year in which slavery was formally abolished. When the Act was passed freed slaves seeking refuge flocked to the town. Sadly, the teacher’s training college was closed in 1926 by the white dominated government who felt coloured (mixed race) people were better suited to labouring on farms.

Oldest pipe organ, first fire engine, character museum

In addition to an incredibly pretty well conserved town, this is where visitors can see the oldest pipe organ in South Africa and the country’s first fire engine. The Genadendal Mission Museum is housed in the old teacher’s training college. If you’re lucky you’ll get to hear the community church choir animatedly singing or the jazzy sounds of the spirited brass band. You’ll also get to see the local weaving initiative’s exquisitely crafted authentically hand-woven products, which are available for purchase. Do plan to stay a while. You’ll want to soak up the atmosphere. You’ll need to book in advance for lunch at the Moravian Restaurant. You’re likely to get something typically hearty and South African on the menu. Alternatively, pack your own picnic lunch and sit quietly under the trees in the town square. Genadendal really is a remote, otherworldly experience that won’t disappoint.